I have to admit to never having seen
TombRaider, but of course one can’t help but know about it – Angelina Jolie,
computer game, action hero. Another
admission is my lack of fore knowledge about Siem Reap, Cambodia. That’s where Angkor Wat is. For anyone who’s not making the connection
here, let me elaborate.
Angkor Wat was first a Hindu, then later a
Buddhist, temple built in the early 12th century by the Khmer King Suryavarman
II – as in Surya Namaskar, he of salute to the sun – and it’s the largest religious
monument in the world. In the 16th
century it was abandoned to the jungle until being rediscovered and restored as
an important archaeological, architectural and artistic site, in the 20th
century. It’s not really just about one
temple, but rather a whole collection of temples and buildings, laced with
moats and pathways, decorating the jungle just 5 kilometres outside of Siem
Reap.
And it is spectacular, for all the
trappings of tourism, but take a walk in Angelina’s footsteps and you will be
at La Prohm – the TombRaider temple.
This is the one with great boulders scattered around the grounds. Centuries old trees, with roots lifting
structures out of their earthbound foundations, as their branches scale huge
heights into the sky. The energetic
presence of history oozes from every crack.
Travelling around South East Asia, it’s
easy to become complacent about yet another wat, and the idea of a day visiting
all of these was ominous. First stop in
the beating sun was Angkor. Traffic
banked up. Photograph for entrance
ticket. Dropped off at the main
entrance. Walk across the stone slab
bridge to the impending majesty of this iconic silhouette. The challenge for me is always getting those
pictures that make it look untouched by human hands; no wires, plumbing, signs
or people. And even with the mass of
people there on that Sunday in January, it was still possible. It’s impossible to describe the grandeur, or
even see it all. Rather it’s one of those
places maybe best for a less is more
experience: the stone wall carvings along the breezeways, the devas flanking
the stairs to the harem wing, even just the stairs. So many yoga pose opportunities.
Wandering back out along the causeway, it’s
hard not to feel something – small, awed.
But wait, there’s more. Another
temple before lunch.
As established, I had no preconceptions
about La Promh. My only thinking was to
find a spot to do a suitable superhero pose, worthy of Lara Croft. I’d even picked out the as yet untested
asana. The entrance to La Prohm is
through a stone arch; an elephant access sized stone arch. From here it is quite a walk along a sandy
path through semi jungle until the boulders strewn haphazardly around begin to
pile themselves into forms and then structures, leading to the compound of this
truly ancient but living temple. Step
off the well trodden path of the swarming Korean and Chinese tour groups and be
blessed by a tiny hunched Buddhist nun.
Find a wall on an outbuilding and strike a pose. Walk back through the avenue of trees and be
serenaded by the music of a Khmer Traditional Mahori Band, the syncopated
rhythms matching footsteps historic and present.
After a tourist lunch – Argh! There was one more temple; Bayon Temple the
most tumble down. I was by this time templed out and chose yoga on the grass out the front instead. For me this was an authentic temple
experience, and I no doubt have appeared in the background of many Facebook
photos. And you can see my Temple Yoga
Goddess day on Instragram: sabineyoga
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