Monday 21 July 2014

My Perfect Yoga Retreat

“Where would you like to go for your birthday?  I was thinking Paris.  We’ll be half way there.”
Oh my goodness.  How long ago does that conversation seem.  Walking in the autumn afternoon at Burleigh Beach.  Planning a life.  Our life.  To standing on Udupi Railway station.

Paris, or more generally France, had represented Le Tour and Le Cordon Bleu, plus some yoga thrown in, by myself.  Now it was clearly going to be a different sort of trip to France and that was okay.  But as the time moved closer, and travel weary me took stock, we synchronistically decided from different continents, that Kerala was the better option.  And this is how we came to be waiting for the train to Thiruvananthapuram in the early evening, fast becoming late evening.

I’ve waxed eloquently about train trips, in particular overnight train trips in India, before.  Suffice to say my apprehension was growing with each passing minute ... hour we waited.  Of course the train finally arrived and with a minimum of fuss, deposited us at Trivandrum Station as the dawn light filtered through a pre-monsoon drizzle.

After some less than luxurious as advertised properties, and an anxious lead up to our visit to Somatheerum Ayurvedic Resort, all fears were allayed starting with the seamless pick up from the railway station at 7am.  Our chariot awaited, an Ambassador with driver and chaperone, and we slipped out of the city to the northern beaches before breakfast.  Arriving and checking-in in a cooling rain.  The sound, sight and smell of the salty ocean, we could see while lying on the bed in our light filled, airy, clean bungalow with crisp white sheets and towels.  The bountiful South Indian cuisine; crunchy living vegetables.  The sometimes hilarious Ayurvedic treatments.  Yoga and meditation twice a day.

One evening at dinner I was telling Brian why this was my perfect yoga retreat?  All my needs were met:  When is yoga?  When is my next treatment?  What great food can I eat now?  He got up from the table and remarked, “It’s good to see I don’t get a mention.  Except when you need the credit card.”


Next day Penny sent me this YouTube link:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QYgdvMELSAQ with the warning, “You’ll wet yourself laughing.”

Thursday 17 July 2014

You'll need a hammer for that!

Armed with my food Hindi, not a tool belt, I have ventured bravely into my Indian kitchen.  Shweta, in Gurgaon, inspired me with her North Indian home cooking.  Rima, in Naddi, convinced me I could translate my baking into my new home version.  Asha and Iendrani, my neighbours in Manipal, continue to mentor and encourage me, answering food questions, giving lessons in the ingredients, recipes and techniques they learned in their mothers’ South Indian kitchens.  My yoga friend, Shilpa, is my test kitchen taster and translator, plus she shares care packages from her mother’s kitchen with me.

The boy reckons food is my safe place, one of two topics I can always bring the conversation around to and find a way to connect with people, regardless of culture or culinary context.  Everywhere we travel I find my way to the kitchen, hotel kitchens and home kitchens alike, collecting not just recipes but a sense of community and purpose.

Now with a lot of trials and tribulations, the pressure cooker and I have come to an understanding, and the microwave convection oven has learned how to make my signature muffins, albeit with a local twist or two.

You’ll find my continuing cooking story at my new blog, Constans' Curry Culture  

As for the hammer ... it’s for cracking open the coconut.

Wednesday 16 July 2014

Secret Diary of a Vipassana Meditator

Contrary to my boy’s expectation, it wasn’t the 10 days of silence, or even handing in my iPhone, that was a problem for me.  As for the sitting still and meditating all day every day – I’d done two months in traction.  I’d be fine.  The difference I soon discovered was that this time I physically could get up, but it wasn’t allowed.  Recipe for claustrophobia.  But that didn’t come til Day 4 ...

They actually trick you and designate arrival day, Day Zero, and it’s disorganised, hot and noisy.  Checking in and allocating rooms to 45 Indian and 5 foreign women takes the best part of the afternoon, and the staccato chatter that shimmers like a heat cloud as it settles on the dormitory, builds to such an intensity that I wonder how on earth they will come to an abrupt stop.  True to all the vipassana accounts I’ve read, the urgent need for snacks sent me and an Irish girl outside the gates foraging before lockdown.

Day One and let the games begin.  In a weird version of boot camp meets POW camp we’re numbered and marched in, each to our cushion for the week.  That’s it.  No instructions.  No fans! From my background of yoga practice with guided meditation, this is boring and directionless.  At least there are the meal breaks to look forward to.  Yum.  Savoury rice bubbles, dry, for the dinner snack tonight ... and it would turn out, every night.  But, you know, I really kind of liked them.  The boy was going to love this addition to my culinary repertoire.

On Day Two I decided I liked the 4.30 to 6.30am meditation best.  In the cooler predawn darkness I could feel anonymous in the trickle of people who padded to their allotted spots.  We, the wicked foreign women, were grouped on the far edge of the room, near the windows.  A red hibiscus bush blossomed in my line of sight with seven, eight, thirteen flowers on any given day.  My body was already aching for some yoga, and my mind longed for the focus of some instruction.

How quickly we develop the habits of community and replicate our patterns in a new environment.  After breakfast, cleaning and washing in a silent procession, fulfilled our needs for certainty and meaning.  Very quickly my first reason for coming surfaced:  The challenge of the absolute external emotional intelligence unawareness of my indigenous fellow inmates was astounding.  Did silence mean no etiquette and no manners?  Our cleaning lady has more class than what I observed in these supposedly middle and upper caste women, and particularly from those over forty.

With a lot of days to go, I had to find a way, and of course that’s what meditation is about, finding the middle path.  For me this balance is found in the practice of Kundalini yoga, where prana, the life force, circulates through a network of subtle channels, the nadis.  The two energies of Ida and Pingala flow along the left and right sides of the spine of the subtle body, and the Sushumna nadi flows up and down, between them, coursing through the chakras and balancing prana.  Yeah great!  All well and good sitting on your mat in a beautiful beachside yoga studio.  Tough call trapped on one square metre of real estate in a Dhamma Hall in Bangalore.

I can’t change the world, but I don’t have to change who I am.  Acceptance not compromise.  I don’t have to change the world, just be.  That’s enough.  I love my life.  I feel safe.  I need to move – my body needs yoga.  Ω

Day Three began on a high.  Oh my gosh!  Tea without sugar, just for me.  But in a place with no rules, India has all of a sudden thrown up a zillion ... and I apparently break all of them.  The first and worst is daring to be a foreigner and come here.  The list of no’s is endless:  no fans, no outside, no skin, especially no white skin, no white hair, no blue eyes, no open eyes, no open windows, no open doors (at least that is purported to be because of thieving monkeys), no touching, no thank you, no manners!  I am cast as the villain who doesn’t follow the rules.  So does this mean I’ve cracked it?  I understand the code.  I’m ready to go now.

Peppermint, lime, cypress and frankincense.

Start again, it’s Day Four.  I think this was hump day.  I steeled myself and fronted to ask the guru a question.  Well, what a waste of time that was.  The so called guru turned out to be nothing more than a technique adviser.  This is the technique that we had had no proper instruction for, just outdated audio and video discourses by the now deceased guru who had kept the tradition of vipassana alive in Burma and then returned to India a conquering hero to bring enlightenment to all the fallen.  This manifested itself in his resolute grip on absolute power and inability to empower or give ownership and the title of teacher to anyone else.  The supervising assistants are destined to be gurus in waiting forever.  Of course this sparked huge cognitive dissonance for me in terms of learning and teaching theory and practice ... but that’s a whole other story and the boy would insist that it’s all about context anyway ... whatever that means.

By Day Five I admit I’m fully into the sensation identification as a manifestation of an emotion.  Even though that still sounds way too hippy trippy for me, I got it.  I’m one of those learners who will learn in spite the of quality of the teaching.  Nerdish but true.

Prickly is seeking validation.  Pain is for defence and strength in aloneness.  Heat and heart palpitations equal the old favourite, addiction to perfection.  And without getting attached and craving, shimmering is the Samadhi centre of nurturing, love and mothering.  Well, at least that’s how it is for me.  Your experience will be unique to you.

Being a morning person, as we’ve established, and having worked all that through and out by lunch time, I needed a way to fill the long, tedious and insufferable afternoon sessions.  I’ve written about this before so I’ll include the same passage.

“I remembered reading the autobiography of Dr. Tenzin Choedrak, personal physician to the Dalai Lama, and the accounts of other people who found themselves in confined spaces.  They still managed their yoga practice in stillness.  They mentally pictured their bodies doing the asanas, breathing and taking their minds through the sequence of postures they were unable to do.  I had time and I needed focus.”

I booked an hour of yoga for 3pm each day.  I pictured myself on my yoga mat, fluid and graceful, physically moving and living my yoga practice.  About this time the music also began to play and the first track of my vipassana soundtrack was cut, The Secret City, Changing Channels in My Head, followed by Simon and Garfunkel, I am a Rock.  The creativity of an uncluttered mind doesn’t stop there.  I’d already gone through the presentation I was giving the next week, and the whole subject outline for a course we were pitching.  Above and beyond that, when I really had to get out of my head, I shapeshifted into a white and gold budgerigar and flew myself to the beach to walk on the sand and dip my wings in the water.

Things got a bit freaky on Day Six when all this meditation really did spit up stuff I had dealt with and neatly packed away, but not really owned the reasons for.  So here I was looking for a philosophical discussion and some guidance on psychological and practice issues, and there was nothing.  As a meditator, you are allowed to talk to the assistant teacher, but as I’d already discovered this was a dead end.  Now, I consider myself an intelligent aware woman and I felt like this.  What on earth do they do with the crazies who come along to be healed and just get told to breathe and concentrate on their nose for four days?

Except for my flights to the beach and yoga sessions, the only thing that kept me sane and on the cushion when I was sinking, was the cool breeze that would defy the stillness and brush its finger tips over my skin, reminding me and reinforcing my air sign and connection with the life energy of prana.

From Day Seven my mantra was, I’m done.  I want to go home now, but there was no way this was going to beat me.  I was committed.  My soundtrack had moved on to Hunters and Collectors, Throw your arms around me.

I can’t meditate on the clock and I don’t want to meditate around the clock.

On Day Eight I solved the mystery of female familial relationships.  Truly.  Oh, and I realised the Reiki energy is within me.  Filling my head, the music changed to Kate Cerebrano's Courage and then Cry Baby, you get no sympathy from me.

I have a calm balanced mind.  I have dissolved.  I have saved my inner child.  I am still, in the midst of the swirling air.

Racing towards the end, Day Nine was my epiphany day.  I’d like to say it was some amazing revelation, but in hindsight it seems deceptively small.  My final song was Ruthie Foster's, Phenomenal Woman and that really is it ... and my gratitude for the gift of yoga.  Ω

And then it was Day Ten, which really couldn’t count for most of the meditators, as they stampeded to collect their mobile phones before breakfast, after they’d fidgeted through the final dawn meditation.  Noble Silence had actually finished at lunch time on Day Nine and there was no gentle easing back in, or rationing of words that rushed to fill those hard earned pauses in the mind chatter.  Voices gathered in the air like a thunderstorm gaining intensity in the warm night, until finally the cloudburst scattered the owners back to their erstwhile lives.  Last to collect my phone, I was suddenly alone to enjoy the calm after the storm.

Nowhere to go.  Nothing to do.  No one to please.

Tuesday 15 July 2014

Goa Girls!

The rain of the burgeoning monsoon accompanies our train into the evening, along the edge of the Western Ghats.  Already Goa, the Byron Bay of India, has become a memory; a mirage of mixed cultures, contexts and messages.  Mostly a collection of yoga, simple local food, stormy beaches and hot showers, on our girls’ trip to Goa.
Within the cloisters of the Portuguese heritage property, Casa Severina, India fades away and we create whatever we want.  Talking until midnight drinking tea, yoga at 7am, flowing into breakfast til 10am.
Two on a two wheeler with flimsy German army helmets, rain jackets and sunglasses.  Of course this was the day the rain came.  Intrepid or just determined we visited Fort Aguada (Red, naturally!) and its lighthouse, then scootered to the Ritz Classic for Rava Fish Thali for lunch ... which was more classic than ritzy.  Thoroughly authentic.  Soaked, dripping and shivering, jackets and helmets in hand, we didn’t even stand out.  We maybe I did with my short blonde sticks for hair ...
The lunch crush was peaking as we arrived at 2.30pm.  Last orders are at 3pm, and the speed and mindlessness with which the locals can devour the Goan specialty, is matched only by the production line efficiency with which the thalis are dealt from the kitchen.  Each is an exact plating of rice, two rava coated lady fish (innards still in, head still on), cabbage poriyal, fish masala, pippis in their shells, and a raw onion and coconut salad.
Well fed and still wet, but No coffee, madam, our next stop is for coffee and cake Indian style.  Note:  It is best to go with the local cuisine.  Indian coffee with coconut barfi and besan ladoo is always going to be better than some attempt at a processed western equivalent.  Fortified, we retrace our ride from Old to New Goa again, and the haven of Casa Severina.

... and so the train speeds us back to Udupi, where we alight into a gentle drizzle on a Sunday night ... and step back into India.

Friday 4 July 2014

An Adventure Trip to Turds' Beach

Malpe Beach is the place to be.  Just 8 kilometres west of Manipal, it’s a popular destination for locals and tourists alike.  ‘Swim at your own peril during monsoons’ says the warning sign, but the local press runs stories of whole families perishing in the wild 1 foot surf at any other time.  Wet saris clearly don’t function well as life preservers!  But I digress.

The southern of Malpe Beach has a fishing port, ship building yard and extensive breakwater, which affords some protection from the large monsoon waves, possibly even rideable.  Calm conditions and a low tide expose numerous clumps of brown soft rocks, or so it seems.  But closer inspection reveals evidence of the national statistic that says, around 67 percent of the population still defecates in public.  So we renamed the spot, Turds’ Beach – a bit of a play on “Purd’s” Beach, for obvious reasons.

Still more digression, as the road from Udupi to Malpe/Turds’ to check the surf is a narrow winding potholed and congested ‘road’ where safety first has to be one’s primary consideration.  Stuck behind a brown Eicher truck (How unusual!) doing a hefty 30kmph, I was being overtaken on a blind corner on a bridge, by a suicidal Suzuki driver.  Forced off the road, well to the point of resistance as said vehicle confronted the oncoming bus – I think it was called “Shezha” – so you can imagine, pretty run down and moving fast, for fear of ‘missing out’.  When resistance results in body contact of the vehicular metal, glass and plastic type, you know the situation is tight.  What can you do?  Lay on the horn.  Thank god the rear view mirror is spring loaded.  Say a few ‘Hail Mary’s’, or ‘Om Shanti’s’ to Shiva.

Suzuki stops.  Out jumps an aggressive Indian male, and his girlfriend (or was it his mother), shouting abuse about It’s his country.  His road.  His rules.  And why was I trying to overtake him on the left?  Not logic there.  Accept the abuse.  Mutter something about leaving me out of his death wish, and drive on.

Later, checking the Indian Road Rules (Hah?) on the government website, I find: it’s illegal to pass on the left (Well here they pass on the left, right and middle.) so that can’t be correct; illegal to pass if “if your action endangers or inconveniences” vehicles travelling in either direction (nonsense again), or the vehicle being overtaken does not indicate it’s safe to do so.  I must have given the head wobble reflexively, to communicate, Do whatever!


Turds on the road as well as turds on the beach, made my day.

Who's got Right of Way?

Returning from a trip to Malpe Beach, we’ve turned off the main road and are heading through the back streets to home, when we arrive at an important ‘Y’ intersection.  Cars and bikes to the left, indicating, hesitating.  A bus to the right, moving menacingly.


We approach the crunching mess of motor vehicles, slowly with caution.  Who’s got right of way here? I ask.  Answer:  They guy in the white Tata Indigo who comes from nowhere and roars through intersection, moving majestically between the entangled vehicles.  Obvious really!

Two for the Price of Three!

Shopping in India is always an experience, as my goddess partner has written about in earlier blogs.  However I’m not just talking about the local bazaar full of cheap cotton, brass and wooden artefacts, but that wonderful western influenced shopping experience – the supermarket.  Welcome to Big Bazaar, a national chain of retail stores, that I recently learned has a store layout model that reflects the local community.  Translation – it’s not standardised like Bunning’s and you’ll find pulses next to plastic buckets, because that makes sense ... at least in Udupi.

Shopping alone for domestic cleaner and soy milk, I find myself on Level 2 in the men’s clothing section.  Cheap shirts, polyester pants and packs of underwear.  The Bonds are getting a bit tired.  Maybe time to try the local product.  AFL brand has to be a winner, but no Swannies’ colours in the multi packs.  I’m assured 90cm in M, and they’re a bargain at three for Rs199; just about a dollar each.  At least they’re cotton and not made in China.

Out of the store and home to unpack the goodies.  Neatly arranged, there’s a distinct difference in the size of one pair.  Marked 90?  Yes, but smaller by heaps.  Squeeze into them.  Bits hanging loose everywhere.


Another bargain from Big Bazaar.  Undies, two for the price of three!

National Highway (NH) 17

You really can’t go anywhere from Udupi, north or south, unless you tackle National Highway 17 or NH17.  True to Indian form, NH17 varies from kilometres of six lane freeway quality, with or without line markings, to a one and a half car width that would do an Aussie bush track proud.  With the onset of the monsoon road verges give way to rivulets, and potholes have been renamed Hyundai holes; big enough to bury the four wheeler.

But it doesn’t end there.  Rules of the road don’t seem to exist, other than the Darwinian equivalent of motoring.  Watch out if you’re walking or on a bicycle.  Auto rickshaws are treated with disdain as they screech along, their two strokes spurting out appropriate volumes of exhaust.  Top speed is maybe 50 kilometres per hour, less if fully loaded.  Indicators going left, right, or both ways at the same time, they’re invariably in the outside lane, either heading in the same direction as you, or complete opposite.  Headlights on, often flashing, provide your choice of warning or protection from a likely head on.  Further up the vehicular food chain comes two wheelers, then four wheelers; the bigger clearly the more important.  Then trucks, buses; again the heavier the better.

Now for the driving experience.  Trucks fully loaded, slow but definitely in the outside lane.  Pass to the left, or if the truck is overtaking another truck, take the in between option.  Buses are not to be argued with.  Full throttle, full horn, get out of the way.  The bus drivers are on a mission from (or to) god.  Recently chased down NH17 by a bus named Vanessa, although there are plenty of Shri  something or others, that are equally dangerous.

Overtaking on blind curves and hills has to be an Indian driver speciality.  Rear view mirrors are a must, for the foreign driver, and I currently only have one, on the driver’s side.  Honking of horn signals I’m in the right!, even if it turns out to be a suicide mission.  Smugly move to the left and force the unsuspecting, law abiding Mr Safe Driver off the road.  It’s been explained as context dependent.  In other words, My mad context is all that matters.

Aussie in India Solution 1.  Move up to close the gap in front, and where and when the suicide driver backs off, slow down to allow his mission to be completed; contact with oncoming bus, truck, whatever.  Undeterred, some missions have an abort function embedded in the local driver mind:  keep moving across to the left.  I’ve got the body contact scars on the Hyundai to prove it.

Aussie in India Solution 2.  The fist bashing on the side of the overtaking vehicle, followed by the application of the bully bar; a sharp, pointed metal pick that can wreak havoc on bodywork, paintwork, maybe side windows.


NH17, just code for Darwinian motorway.