What's to do in Manali?
Old Manali for the drop outs, Vishasht for the hot springs and Rohtang Pass. We never got to Old Manali. The bus tip to Mandi put paid to that. But Vishasht hot springs were a treat. Conversations with mad Delhians and local bathers, lobster red or the vegetarian equivalent after immersion. We decamp to the German bakery discovered by DG, swatting away a blanket of flies from every surface we order what is supposed to be Espresso coffee, cinnamon swirl, yak cheese and crusty baked brown bread rolls. Aah, luxury, but I digress.
Neraj picks us up at 9 am sharp in a well maintained Suzuki Swift. Piling in the back seat, we're off up the treacherous winding road at breakneck speed, heading to Rohtang Pass. Even at 2500 metres we pass scores of hire shops. Need to get the full bear suit for Rs 50/- per day, we're heading for 6000 metres.
'No thanks.' Press on.
A head on smash blocks the road. Hit the horn hard and just keep going.
'How fast?' Don't ask.
The main highway to Leh soon appreciates into a series of one car width, dirt potholes. We make it to Mahli, half way. There's a monastry - well a temple suitable for yoga postures and a brief respite. I'm thinking this road would make a great segment for 'Top Gear'. Hammond in a Suzuki Alto 800, 3 cylinders, the most popular, cheapest car in India, fully charged at 47bhp! Clarkson in an equivalent vintage Ambassador (also known as a 1956 Morris Oxford), and James May in something akin to the best of British - perhaps an old Jag. First to the top of Rohtang pass or perhaps all the way to the Tibetan border.
Reaching the Pass we press on past the pony rides, paragliders and Indian portaloos, to reach the snow line. It's colder here, but only to the point of brisk mountain air. Enough time for a top of the mountain warrior pose and admiring Indian tourist snaps before the even more rapid descent down the switchbacks.
It's almost impossible to describe Indian motoring prowess. White knuckles are a distant second best on this type of 'road'. 'How fast are we going?' 'He's not really going to overtake on this blind hairpin is he?' Top speed was 70 kph, but we made it back in one piece ... or should I say two pieces?
Priceless. Not on Mastercard, but a car, driver, eight hours and a never to be repeated experience - Rs 1800, about $30 cash, door to door. Whew!
Old Manali for the drop outs, Vishasht for the hot springs and Rohtang Pass. We never got to Old Manali. The bus tip to Mandi put paid to that. But Vishasht hot springs were a treat. Conversations with mad Delhians and local bathers, lobster red or the vegetarian equivalent after immersion. We decamp to the German bakery discovered by DG, swatting away a blanket of flies from every surface we order what is supposed to be Espresso coffee, cinnamon swirl, yak cheese and crusty baked brown bread rolls. Aah, luxury, but I digress.
Neraj picks us up at 9 am sharp in a well maintained Suzuki Swift. Piling in the back seat, we're off up the treacherous winding road at breakneck speed, heading to Rohtang Pass. Even at 2500 metres we pass scores of hire shops. Need to get the full bear suit for Rs 50/- per day, we're heading for 6000 metres.
'No thanks.' Press on.
A head on smash blocks the road. Hit the horn hard and just keep going.
'How fast?' Don't ask.
The main highway to Leh soon appreciates into a series of one car width, dirt potholes. We make it to Mahli, half way. There's a monastry - well a temple suitable for yoga postures and a brief respite. I'm thinking this road would make a great segment for 'Top Gear'. Hammond in a Suzuki Alto 800, 3 cylinders, the most popular, cheapest car in India, fully charged at 47bhp! Clarkson in an equivalent vintage Ambassador (also known as a 1956 Morris Oxford), and James May in something akin to the best of British - perhaps an old Jag. First to the top of Rohtang pass or perhaps all the way to the Tibetan border.
Reaching the Pass we press on past the pony rides, paragliders and Indian portaloos, to reach the snow line. It's colder here, but only to the point of brisk mountain air. Enough time for a top of the mountain warrior pose and admiring Indian tourist snaps before the even more rapid descent down the switchbacks.
It's almost impossible to describe Indian motoring prowess. White knuckles are a distant second best on this type of 'road'. 'How fast are we going?' 'He's not really going to overtake on this blind hairpin is he?' Top speed was 70 kph, but we made it back in one piece ... or should I say two pieces?
Priceless. Not on Mastercard, but a car, driver, eight hours and a never to be repeated experience - Rs 1800, about $30 cash, door to door. Whew!
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